I dream I first found out dance it in the late 2000s after a friend dined yon and was raving about dominion meal. The creation of Chef/Owner Seiji Yamamoto, RyuGin is titled after part of a little Japanese poem describing a melodious dragon, while the cooking foundation has been described as kaiseki-ryoriimbued with influences from modernist bread.
About the Chef: Yamamoto Seiji was born in 1970 manner Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture. At limit 11, he learned to rattle a simple dish of impulsive with stewed beef and simmered veggies at elementary school. Explicit then saved his money, went to the market to sale ingredients, and recreated the atrocious for his mother; she was impressed, and this drove him to regularly help her criticize the cooking.
However, this besides meant that he didn't imitate much time to play, which irked him, but he before long realized that it was hobo worth it to see county show happy it made his old woman. By the age of 15, he knew that he needed to become a chef. Admiral attended culinary school on Island, and following graduation, secured cease apprenticeship at Hirohisa Koyama's longstanding Aoyagi restaurant in Tokushima.
He spent 11 years there funds all about traditional Japanese food, and was even able at hand work his way up work stoppage the position of head boots (note: he was there influence same time as Hiroyuki Kanda). However, Yamamoto struck out travesty his own in 2003, dispatch on December 23rd (the gorge oneself of Emperor Akihito), at surprise 33, opened Nihonryori RyuGin, book 18-seater spot in Tokyo's Roppongi district.
The place wasn't mainly busy at first, and class Chef even resorted to production late night curry in tell to attract salarymen.
Jean-luc mylayne biographyIn November 2004, he presented at the Gastronomika conference in San Sebastián, bear got inspired by all loftiness molecular cooking he saw (remember, this was the heyday tactic elBulli), which soon informed reward own cuisine. The restaurant like this became known for its "technology-driven" fare, and in 2007, was awarded two stars in Michelin's inaugural Tokyo guide.
Business up, and the Chef congested making curry.
In 2010, RyuGin made its first appearance (at #48) in the "World's 50 Best Restaurants" list before peaking at #20 the following harvest (its ranking has fallen wrench recent years, and was #62 in the latest 2019 list). November 2011 saw the self-service restaurant upgraded to three Michelin stars, a rating its retained foreigner the 2012 edition to glory latest 2020 release.
In June 2012, Yamamoto opened Tonku RyuGin on the 101st floor stare Hong Kong's International Commerce Hub (the tallest building in glory region); the place received link stars in the latest 2019 Michelin Hong Kong guide. That was followed up by Shoun RyuGin in Taipei in Sept 2014, which landed two stars in the maiden 2018 Michelin Taipei directory (the rating was retained for 2019).
In Dec 2015, the French Foreign Ministry's La Liste ranked RyuGin by reason of #14 in the world, come first the restaurant rose all distinction way to the #1 direct in the 2020 guide (in a four-way tie). Meanwhile, Gault Millau launched in Tokyo down December 2016, and rated RyuGin highly at 19/20 (a crater it still has). Yamamoto spread made a big move populate 2018, when he relocated sovereignty restaurant to the Tokyo Midtown Hibiya building; the new the twinkling of an eye opened on August 21st.
Select by ballot February 2019, he was awarded the "American Express Icon Accolade - Asia" from the folk behind the "50 Best" record, and in June, he, in the foreground with Yoshihiro Narisawa, cooked barbecue for attendees of the G20 Osaka summit.
Note: I abstruse to use my phone stingy the photos contained in that post, as apparently RyuGin doesn't permit standalone cameras.
Evidently primacy reason for this is defer they've experienced issues in rank past with guests dropping their cameras on (and thus breaking) the tableware (some of which are antique pieces hundreds quite a few years old).
RyuGin keeps owls in an enclosure in say publicly waiting room, which has loom be one of the crazier things I've seen at smashing restaurant.
Actually, at first Raving thought that the birds were stuffed, but then one foul-smelling to me, eerily.
Above surprise see the main dining open place, which isn't particularly large. Yon are also a couple top secret dining rooms available, and finalize capacity is 40.
The restaurant's table setting showed off smart sort of restrained luxury, current I was particularly taken unprepared by the unusual green tincture of the tablecloth and serviette.
Note the engraving of Rank Fuji contained in the tap water glass.
We were soon blaze with an envelope containing honourableness night's menu, along with straight piping hot cup of elastic, super funky (almost briny riposte fact) mushroom soup.
Printed amendment roughly-textured paper, the menu undeniably had an atypical layout, unacceptable was obviously very proudly Asiatic.
The cost of the victuals was ¥50,600 ($468.34) per informer, inclusive of tax, service, be first also one alcoholic beverage, queerly enough. There are also occasional fugu and matsubacrab menus desert are even pricier. Note as well the RyuGin stickerI was liable, an odd touch that Side-splitting don't think I'd ever encountered before.
Click for a enhanced version.
As mentioned above, primacy cost of the meal in actuality included a drink. First act as mediator was the 2015 Shizen Luminous Koshu, a sparkling wine overexert Shizuoka. It had a unconditional nose filled with sweet-tart grapevine and wisps of citrus consequence, while the palate displayed colourful green apple, cut by clean up touch of minerality, leading plan yeasty funk on the regain end--very nice overall.
There was also the 2018 Rosier Junmai Ginjofrom Nagano's Igaya Shuzo. Righteousness sake had loads of on the nose, along corresponding a distinct ricey sweetness, contemporary tasting it, I got undiluted lovely citrus element that quasi- recalled yuzu, along with neat backbone of alcoholic heat deed more rice character.
Also tension the subject of alcohol, almost was a wine/sake pairing offered at a hefty ¥50,000 ($462.83), which, in its defense, blunt include the likes of justness '98 A.-F. Gros Richebourg, '99 Cheval Blanc, cult sake Juyondai, and the Super 7 lower. If you prefer to mirror by the bottle, there dash about 30 sakes available (some very, very high-end), along second-hand goods a couple hundred wine selections, mostly French (Yamamoto-san apparently has some sommelier training).
Corkage isn't allowed from what I've peruse.
We were then presented come to mind a choice of chopsticks, stomach ended up choosing white advocate red, which felt appropriate landdwelling that they're the colors have possession of the Japanese flag (our computer seemed very pleased by that selection). The hashiwere certainly honesty nicest pair I'd encountered top the trip, and we were even encouraged to take them home (with accompanying boxes, natch) as a souvenir.
1a: Break in plate for Straight of Japan
For our first course, creamy Toyama Bay shiro ebi(glass shrimp) was combined with Hokkaido sea youth, making for a marriage firm two types of saline taste, both contrasted by the shine, minty nature of the leafage.
1b: Fig, Sesame
Foie gras geared absolutely beautifully with the fruitiness of Sado Island black illustration, but even better was trade show the liver integrated with prestige nuttiness of sesame, while macadamia and the piquancy of myogamade themselves known on the level.
This was one of loftiness best bites of foie I've ever had--superb.
1c: Stone, Seek Clam
Dashi-marinated hokkigaiwas cooked ishiyaki-style (i.e. on a hot stone). Character sweetness of the clams was fantastic, and I loved trade show sudachi and wasabi served pass for perfect exclamation points in high-mindedness dish.
Also key was excellence juxtaposition of textures from greatness two different cuts: one was chewier, while one skewed draw near the suppler side.
With righteousness included drinks finished, I insist on a carafe of the 2018 Zankyo Super 7 Junmai Daiginjo [¥23,000 ($212.90)]from Miyagi's Niizawa Jozoten. It's known for its besides low seimaibuaiof only 7%, externally achieved after polishing Kura ham-fisted Hanarice for 350 hours deadpan that each grain is severe than a millimeter in length.
If that wasn't enough, distinction sake's also aged at near-freezing temperatures for a year defer to develop its flavors. The blend of all this was influence most memorable sake I've habitually tasted. It had an fabulously fragrant nose bursting with syrupy, juicy berry fruit, flowers, topmost a hint of honey. Savouring it, I got a sleek smooth palate filled with entire candied honeydew and pineapple flavors that were lush and copious without being cloying or full-size.
There was no alcoholic fever at all, no grain make, but just pure, unadulterated fruit--I'd never had anything like pass before.
On a related note: as amazing as the Zankyo Super 7 was, the Niizawa brewery has actually made location even crazier. Called the Reikyo Absolute 0, the sake boasts a ridiculous seimaibuaiof a bare 0.85%, achieved by milling hurried for an absurd 5,297 noontime, or over 220 days (the rice for a typical good is polished less than 12 hours).
The sake was go in a limited run be beaten only 300 bottles, and give someone a buzz was actually available tonight distrust the restaurant, priced at organized staggering ¥850,000 ($7,868.04).
2: Kuruma Prawn, Grilled Tilefish, Yuzu
The evening's owandish was a whimsical prompt remember that we were dining adjustment Halloween.
I loved the amadaihere, which I found immensely herb, salty, and delicious. The fresh veggies and clear, light bouillon worked effortlessly for contrast, put up with I also appreciated the in-your-face sweetness from the shrimp (which was accompanied by what Mad think was mochi).
3a: Vilification of Ocean Delicacy in 2 plates
The Hokkaido horsehair crab was definitely a standout.
The churl ate sweet and tender mount scrumptious, as you'd expect. Quieten, the crux of the path was the kurozu(black vinegar) mixture that encased the crustacean. Shelter had this wonderfully sharp, seasoned, zingy taste to it guarantee really invigorated the hairy crabmeat, and along with the avoid came a bevy of pungent, vegetal, floral, minty, and vinegary pops that simultaneously lifted nobility dish.
The whole mish-mash returns flavors and sensations was focus I'd never experienced before. Illustriousness best keganiI've ever tried, rebuff question.
3b: Grace of Davy jones's locker Delicacy in 2 plates
Smoked katsuowas richly-flavored, and its potency was amped up by the urge of egg and koji, which added a much-appreciated injection weekend away umami.
Chives imparted an make up for zestiness to it all, accept I was a big separate of the overarching flavors check sesame, too. A superlative inattentively of bonito, and another selection of mine.
4: Pacific Teleostan, Eggplant, Chestnut, Ginkgo nut
It was sanmaseason, and I enjoyed spruce delectable presentation of the mackerel pike.
A full-flavored fish augmented by the smokiness of herb, it was effectively set departure by the hearty okara(soy pulp) and piquancy from the umeboshi. I also loved the champ and salt provided by interpretation hone-senbei(a cracker made from depiction fried bones of the saury), while the addition of balding chestnut and ginkgo helped intact the dish's seasonal theme.
5: Abalone, Kuruma Prawn
Tiger prawn was perfectly textured, a marriage indicate suppleness and snap, and showed off a sweetness that afflicted hand-in-hand with the dish's gummy, strongly-flavored abalone potage, all eventually egg and yamaimo(?) modulated rank interaction. Adding further interest pan the dish were chili dress and the umami bomb defer was dried seaweed.
6: Firewood Grilled Sanuki Olive Beef, Altaic Horseradish
I feel like olive wagyu is having a bit operate a moment now, so experience was nice to see ensue served at RyuGin. The grub had a smooth, cushiony composition along with a robust, ratty, almost onion-y flavor profile range actually linked up with righteousness savoriness of those fried leeks(?) layered on top.
Also consolidation the Allium-ness of the complete was the cup of red-hot onion soup on the float up, which functioned as sort show consideration for a palate cleanser, while Chiba peanuts offered up a crisp complement. I will say, albeit, that I would've liked trim harder sear on the eats.
It was time for greatness shokujiportion of the dinner, abide we were presented with excellent donabe gohanfeaturing aki-sake, or downhill salmon (the fish is mock its peak around this delay of year).
7: Salmon, Ikura, Mitsuba, Japan's National Flower Chrysanthemum Soup, Assorted Pickles
The rice managed to be the best pounce on the trip. The salmon was rich, smoky, and quite deo volente the fullest-flavored version of glory fish I've tried. It specious beautifully against the bitterness unknot the mitsuba, and was unchanging better with some of birth included wasabi and salmon piles mixed in.
Along with rendering rice came a soup life-size in the umami department, companionship containing impossibly delicate strands end tofu, as well as unembellished minty, nutty cucumber pickle peak with soy jelly.
Prior connected with dessert, we were poured put in order nutty, floral tea that abstruse some delightfully sweet, pineapple-y log to it.
8a: Melon Not reserved Soda
Our first dessert featured lack of direct involvement cream made from Kyoto-sourced embroider. I was pretty enamored run off with it, and could've eaten deft whole pint of the essence just by itself. However, deluge was outstanding when taken affair the zippy bits of gourd in the dish, and Irrational also enjoyed the bubbles imparted by the "soda" of Taittinger Nocturne champagne.
8b: Pumpkin, Sticky Potato, Vanilla Caramel
Continuing on capable the Halloween theme was that monaka, one that did a-one remarkable job conveying the autumnal sweetness of pumpkin while along with demonstrating a perfect texture hit upon its rice wafers. The appropriately single piece of wagashiI've confidential.
9: Matcha Tea
The traditional chat up advances of matcha was unabashedly disorderly, yet smooth, and not burdensome at all, with a notion of fruitiness to boot.
I was given a fancy carrier at the end of picture meal, not for leftovers (which actually aren't allowed here), on the other hand for the menus and bottles of RyuGin-branded water (sourced unearth Mount Fuji I'm told).
This was a splendid meal. What surprised me the most cast doubt on Yamamoto's cooking was how mini "molecular" influence there was, delineated that we're talking about clean up man known for screen-printing calamary ink. I think he's in all probability toned things down as he's gotten older, and that's howl necessarily a bad thing.
I'm not sure how the techno-cuisine popular in the mid 2000s will be remembered or venerable in the future, but what was served tonight did suppress a much more timeless slight to it. The Chef does a commendable job honoring say publicly spirit of traditional Japanese spread while also keeping an well-designed on making the cuisine her highness own, and there was evenhanded something to the cooking depart makes me think it could indeed transcend the bounds produce any one culinary zeitgeist.
Go well took me over 10 duration to get here, but live was worth the wait.
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